Raptors high above

A curious thing about our last trip to the Chiriqui highlands in western Panamá last month was the great number of raptors that we saw up there, most of them migrating.  Starting at the foothills with Barred Forest-Falcons, Yellow-headed Caracaras and Roadside Hawks, the variety was quite good.  Can you id the raptor in the next photo?

Once in the highest part, at El Respingo, above 2550 meters above sea level, we witnessed a spectacle: hundreds of migrant Swainson's and Broad-winged Hawks flying back to North America above our heads.  By far the highest number of Buteos I had ever seen in the highlands.

That's because, usually, the only Buteo we see in the Chiriqui's highlands is the resident race of Red-tailed Hawk.  This bird in particular was far away... so we weren't able to check all the field marks... but considering that migratory races of this species are rare in Panamá, we assume that this one belonged to our residents.

Little before that, we witnessed an uncommon migrant raptor, an adult Sharp-shinned Hawk, fiercely chasing a Wilson's Warbler.  I mention this because when we were trying to decide where to have lunch, I saw a raptor elevating in a thermal just in front of the hotel in Guadalupe.  At first sight, I thought it was an immature Sharp-shinned gaining height... but it was apparent that this bird was larger and bulkier.  I took a couple of shots... look at them and let me know what you think.

All the photos show the typical Accipiter shape, with long tail and relatively short wings... but all my photos show the rounded tip to the tail, a field mark for Cooper's Hawk, a vagrant to Panamá, with only some records.  Anyone agree?

A mix of widespread and endemic birds

Western Panamá highlands form part of the Talamanca range, a well-recognized endemic bird area shared with Costa Rica, and a birding trip to this part of Panamá always is full of a great diversity of both Talamanca endemics and more widespread species.  During our last incursion to the highlands, Osvaldo Quintero, Rafael Luck, your blogger host and our guide, Ito Santamaría,  experienced this diversity.  We visited the Bajo Frío area, above Cerro Punta, looking primarily for quetzals (and we eventually saw and photographed them) and finding tons of birds in the way, starting with some common, widespread species.

See what I mean?  Who can't recognize an Acorn Woodpecker?  This clown-faced birds are quite noisy and conspicuous, a common sight in this part of the country.  And talking about common sights, nothing is more common in the highlands than Mountain Elaenias.  This species is found from northern Central America to northern South America.

While looking for quetzals, a covey of Spotted Wood-Quails started to sing close to us.  Ito attracted them with a recorded tape.  Eventually, we got amazing looks of several individuals, but capturing a photo is another theme.  These wood-quails are found from southern Mexico to western Panama; in fact, I have seen this species in Costa Rica as well.

As we moved to higher slopes, along the road to El Respingo, the avifauna changed, and we started to find Talamanca's endemics birds..., like this cooperative Black-cheeked Warbler, part of a flock with five or six birds foraging low in the understore.  This one was taking a sunbath!

There are too MANY endemic birds in those mountains, so I'm only showing a few... in this post of course.  However, we found the next two endemics high at El Respingo, in spite of the weird sign (as I said before, "beware of dog" is not enough in Chiriquí):

"No trespassing, tiger running free"

The Fiery-throated Hummingbird is a specialty of these high altitudes.  The "fiery" throat is hard to see (and this bird liked to stay in dark places), but the tiny white post-ocular spot and the blue tail are good marks.

Also endemic, the Volcano Hummingbird is a tiny gem.  This male was making impressive aerial displays.  The pointed throat usually looks dark, but in the right angle, it glows in an splendid purple tone!

Stay tuned for more highland specialties in the next posts!

To the highlands!

After a year without visiting Panamá's westernmost province, Chiriquí, I was finally on my way last month, accompanied by Osvaldo Quintero.  We left Panamá City late in the morning, so we were expecting to reach the highlands late that afternoon (a 6-hours drive).  We were supposed to meet Rafael Luck and Ito Santamaría above Cerro Punta, in the town of Guadalupe, but realizing that we were not going to make it until dark, we decided to stop at the Macho de Monte Canyon, to take advantage of the last lights.  The "beware of dog" sign is simply not enough for the Chiricans.

"WARNING: possible presence of snakes"

The main reason why I like to visit this spot in march is the flowering Inga tree by the gate of the hydro plant.  The first hummingbird species I noted was a Brown Violetear, first time I see that species outside central Panamá (and erratic everywhere in our country).  Another new for this site (for me) was the Charming Hummingbird.  Several individuals were trying to feed, harassed by the abundant Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds.

You'll have to trust me on this one.  Notice the straight, long bill with reddish base to the lower mandible, dark tail with square tip and greenish rump.  However, I was expecting to find the star of the western hummingbirds: the White-crested Coquette... and like other times, a female appeared to take advantage of the flowering tree.  She stayed in the canopy... to far away for photos... so, again, you'll have to trust me!

The hummingbirds are not the only highlight at this site.  We saw a pair of Buff-rumped Warblers feeding at a small short-grass field.  These smarts birds are very active, always fanning the tails, showing the conspicuous buff coloration.  They were a life photo for both of us.

Almost by the time we were leaving, I heard the characteristic call of a regional endemic.  After a while, we located a pair of Spot-crowned Euphonias working the moss-covered trees.

As you can see, the spots of the male's crown are very inconspicuous... the female is similar to the extralimital Tawny-crowned Euphonia.

Almost at dark, we left the site, heading to Guadalupe and joining Rafael and Ito at Los Quetzales lodge to plan the next day.  It was a heavy itinerary... but you'll see that in my next post!

Birds, vanilla and waterfalls

Due to an intense month in the work, I barely had time to update this blog with posts of my last trips, so I'll do so... starting with some photos of a visit to Cerro Azul (foothills to the east of Panama City), accompanied by the photography-contests-winners Osvaldo Quintero, Rafael Luck and Itzel Fong.

We wandered through the gated community, visiting some classic spots... however, the day was cloudy and windy, and the activity -in general- quite low.  Eventually we reached the end of the Chimborazo street... and our luck changed: a mixed flock was taking advantage of a fruiting tree.

Including this male Gartered Trogon (above), many birds were all over the place... specially tanagers: Blue-gray, Palm, Summer, Hepatic, Plain-colored, Golden-hooded, Bay-headed, Speckled and Crimson-backed Tanagers side-by-side!  But, by far, the most cooperative birds were a trio of Masked Tityras.

The female was more confident, but the male is simply shocking: that red mask and pure white body is unique!

Another pair was feeding in the lower branches of a tree apart of the flock, both male and female Tropical Gnatcatchers are smart and active, intensely foraging every leaf, looking for tiny insects.

Another one feeding nearby was this tiny Paltry Tyrannulet; however, not as actively as the gnatcatchers.  You often heard its characteristic pee-yeep! revealing its presence.

After a while, we left the spot (reluctantly), passing by the Ahren's place, where they told us about a wild vanilla blooming in a nearby street... so we headed to that direction.  It was the sweet essence of the flower that finally attracted us, a marvel of nature!

It was around noon, time to have lunch at the club... but first, we decided to visit a popular site frequented by resident and visitors specially during the summer days: El Vigía waterfalls.

Half of the group could not resist the temptation of submerging in the cold (but refreshing) waters.  Can you tell who are these swimmers?

That's the way you should end every birding trip!

Two hours to the west

As you probably know, we spent most of our weekends at our second hometown: Penonomé, in central Panamá.  Penonomé lies in the geographical center of the country, two hours to the west of Panama City, in the middle of dry savannas with a distinct avifauna.  That is so, that the common species around Penonomé would be rarities in the wetter Panamá City, were we live.  A short ride south of town last sunday, to what is now a regular site for us (I was with Gloriela and Gabrielle), the road to El Gago, produced a nice collection of these birds, including Crested Bobwhites.  There, they are frequently seen and heard, but usually don't stay that long for good shots, so we were lucky.

The last record of bobwhites close to Panama City was in the 19th century... just to put it in perspective.  And the last time someone recorded a Mourning Dove in Panama City (some years ago, a day previous to a CBC), it was considered a vagrant.  In that road south of Penonomé is a common sight... and what a sight!  These doves are beautiful.

The situation is a little bit different with the Brown-throated Parakeets.  They are uncommon in the outskirts of Panama City, and have been recorded right in the middle of the city (for example in Parque Omar)... but in those savannas are simply abundant.  In fact, we crossed MANY flocks that day feeding in pink flowers by the road.

Other species are so widely distributed that are quite common in both regions... but you have to work a little harder to find a White-tailed Kite in the big city.  There, we saw two or three individuals, and even one perched on a fence pole, showing its black shoulders and fiery character.

Well, this was a typical day at the savannas!

They're back!

Almost one year ago, I visited an artificial lake in the middle of a field four miles west of Penonomé (Coclé province, central Panamá) after hearing about a wintering flock of diving ducks.  Last sunday, I visited the lake again early in the morning to see if I was lucky enough to watch some Ring-necked Ducks.  Eventually, I saw the silhouette of two ducks swimming exactly at the other side of the lake... diving ducks for sure, but which one?

Well, the birds don't appear in the previous picture, it only shows the habitat where I saw Anhingas, Neotropic Cormorants and some Killdeers.  The two ducks were against the sun, too far away and not getting closer... and I was unable to id them correctly.  I was about to give up when a guy on a motorcycle approached me.  The kind man introduced himself as Aurelio, the keeper of the lake and the surrounding sugar cane plantations.

After knowing my interest in photographing birds, specifically those distant ducks, he offered me a ride to the other shore where he guided me through overgrown pastures, a little creek and a hidden trail leading right to the spot where the ducks were swimming in front of.  I hurried up to have closer looks without noticing the flock of Blue-winged Teals resting at the shore... they got away immediately, just like teals like to do!

By that moment, the two ducks were already starting to swim away of us.  I was close enough to have a positive id through my binoculars: a pair of Lesser Scaups.  Unfortunately, they were still a little bit far for photos... but I shoot them anyway.

Hey, at least are better than my previous Scaups photos of that site!   It is great to know that they still visit the lake in the middle of a field four miles west of Penonomé!

At the Miraflores Locks

Nothing is more well-known about Panama than its iconic Canal... and nothing represents more the canal than its locks.  I admit that I often visit the locks, but last friday, we had the opportunity to share with the board and staff members of the National Audubon Society (NAS) a delightful night at the Visitors Center of the Miraflores Locks, in the Pacific side of the Panama Canal.

The Panama Canal Authority is in charge of HUGE projects in the canal, including of course the expansion program but also the improvement of the visitors centers.  At Miraflores, the visitor can have an exceptional view of the locks and the transiting ships.

A very important moment of the night was the signaling of the General Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) by and between NAS' president & CEO David Yarnold and Panama Audubon Society's president Darién Montañez, formalizing mutual collaboration to achieve common interest regarding conservation of key habitats for migratory birds, among other objectives.

We hope this MoU is a huge step for strengthening Panama Audubon and its conservation network, and all this under the great sight of the Panama Canal as background!

A visiting hunter

Last friday's evening, I was leaving my apartment in Panamá City to take care of some duties when suddenly a small-sized falcon perched high at a TV antenna.  I returned and grabbed my camera and started to shoot.  My ID was a Merlin, because I saw one individual at least two different times last month in the surroundings, surely taking advantage of the abundant Rock Doves living in the city. 

It was already pretty dark, and the moon was high enough to appear in my photos, looking like a big, silver disc.  I compensated the darkness with the camera's incorporated flash and increasing the exposition.  Without these changes, my first photos looked to dark, and the bird in question recalled a Bat Falcon.  But my last photos came out better, and you can notice the pale face of this bird (nothing to do with the black face and cheeks of the Bat Falcon) and its more bluish-gray back (not black).

Still, the bird was quite distant for my camera, but this cropped photo shows again the same details.  Anyways, for a Merlin, this individual is quite dark, probably indicating is of one of the northwestern subspecies (for example, suckleyi).  

Well, I think I need another chance to get better photos of this little beast!

Ducks fest!

Because a promise is a debt, as I told you in a previous post, we had an extraordinaire day at the marshes east of Panama City a week ago, seeing/photographing eight (8) ducks species!  Ok, it may not sound extraordinaire for some of you... but in Panama, this is simply a mind-blowing number of species.  Not only variety... the numbers were impressive too, just check the next photo of one of the flocks of Blue-winged Teals.

You see, here in Panamá, our bird list includes 16 species of ducks; one is considered extirpated (White-faced Whistling-Duck) while five others are considered vagrants (Comb Duck, Mallard, White-cheeked Pintail, Green-winged and Cinnamon Teals), leaving us with ten species with some kind of realistic (but not optimistic) chances to see in Panamá, since seven are considered rare to very rare, some with connotations like "local" and "irregular".  Guess what, this season, all those ten species had been recorded, and personally I have seen nine already!

Did I mention the numbers?  The above photo shows only a tiny fraction of the huge flock of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks in the site.  This and the Blue-winged Teals are, by far, the commonest species in Panamá, the ones that we see more often, and both are well-known by the panamanians with names like "guichichi" and "salceta" respectively.  From here, all the next species are considered rare, but you have to agree that if you have seen recently a flock of more than 90 Lesser Scaups, then seeing a dozen or so that day was not unexpected.

Seeing Muscovy Ducks was not unexpected too.  Considered rare, this species is also well-known by the locals (as Pato Real), and, away from Las Macans marsh in Herrera province (central Panama), is the second most often found resident species in Panama (second after the "guichichi").  We saw two females, with little white in the wings and no crests.

And talking about resident species, one of my personal highlight was the female-plumaged Masked Duck that we found (actually twice) in one of the first ponds.  A little far for photos, the bird eventually flew (literally jumping out of the water), showing the white patches in the secondaries to land few feet away to "disappear" within a flock of other species.  Curiously, in the way out, we found a dead bird in the street.  This is only the second time I see this species, so I was really happy without knowing what else to expect.

OK, I was expecting at least one other species, a Northern Shoveler, considering the growing number of reports for this season, including five that we saw recently in Punta Chame, to the west of Panama City.  And we found a single female among a group of American Coots and Blue-winged Teals.  Again, only a distant shot.

From here the things become serious!  Among the hundreds of teals, we recognized larger birds resting with them.  It became evident that the birds were American Wigeons when we saw an adult male, and then another, and another, and then two flying... WOW, I don't know how many, but to be conservative I annotated ten birds (surely an underestimation).

But ten American Wigeons is nothing compare to forty (40!) or more Northern Pintails!!!  The last time I remember a report of this species in Panama was 14 years ago, and then only a pair was seen.  The next photos shows different groups (and I could be underestimating the numbers again, check again the first photo in this post).

So you can imagine my surprise when we saw this flock?  Not only that, this duck is elegant, beautiful, very rare and was a LIFER!!!  What a crazy day!