Bim-bim... who is?

Nothing is more pleasant than to withdraw to the countryside after a week of arduous work in the big city. That is why I went with Gloriela to Penonome (central Panama) yesterday, visiting her parents' finca. Each weekend, they plant native trees in what used to be cattle land a couple of years ago. Now, it is a regenerating habitat holding a wide variety of wildlife, including birds. The plan is to have a little cabin in the property (already in construction) to shelter of the sun and the rain, since the entrance's tree is not good enough for that purpose. By now, it was just what Gloriela needed to hang her hammock and to take a nap, while I was having a walk in the surroundings. Eventually, I found a medium sized shrub with tons of little yellow berries frequented by lots of birds... all of them flycatchers: Lesser and Yellow-bellied Elaenias, Social, Panama and Streaked Flycatchers and Tropical Kingbirds were all taking advantage of the fruit bonanza. A little further, a flowering tree was attracting Snowy-bellied Hummingbirds and what I'm tentatively calling a female Sapphire-throated Hummingbird (range and habitat... If you have other opinion let me know), plus a family group of Red-legged Honeycreepers. The countryside is NOT countryside without the call of the Bim-bim (aka Yellow-crowned Euphonia) filling the air. These beautiful little friends are common cage birds in some parts of the country because of its calls and its brightly coloured plumage (males only). By the way, as you surely guessed, the local name Bim-bim [beem-beem] is an onomatopeia of its common call. Other Euphonias has their own onomatopoetic names in Panama, like Ren-ren (Fulvous-vented and Olive-backed Euphonias). The Euphonias used to be considered as little stubby tanagers, but now they are considered more closely related to the fringillids (siskins and goldfinches), a decision that makes more sense to me. The finca still has part of its original vegetation along the creek, where you can find a more humid habitat, with mossy trunks and tall Cecropias... and birds like Thick-billed Euphonias (not to be confused with the Lesser Goldfinches -a fringillid- also present), Lance-tailed Manakins, Black-chested Jays, Masked Tityras and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas. I even found deer's tracks in the muddy shore of the creek and heard a Sepia-capped Flycatcher in the bushes. We spent most of the day in that place, just relaxing, having fun and hearing the incessantly bim-bim, bim-bim, bim-bim. Because everyting comes to an end, we started to head back to town in the evening to say good bye to our friends and relatives. See you next weekend!

Oh my God-wit, there is an intruder among us!

A quick, after-work visit today to the mouth of the Matías Hernández river in Costa del Este produced a nice assortment of shorebirds: Whimbrels, Willets, Yellowlegs and a big group of Marbled Godwits (part of it pictured above). A closer look revealed an elegant Black Skimmer resting peacefully among the Godwits. It stayed for a while, without paying attention to its neighbors, but then flew far away, joining a really BIG flock of Laughing Gulls and, at least, other three or four Skimmers in the beach.

Quite uncommon some years ago, the Skimmers are now regular in this place, sometimes in huge numbers, with the south american race cinerascens also present (hard to tell if this one belongs to it). It is simply fascinating to watch this agile birds skimming the surface of the water while they feed, and I'm glad that now we have the opportunity to witness that show more often.

... and talking about luck

Osvaldo Quintero went yesterday to Pipeline road, in order to do some solo birding, and found a spectacular Sunbittern close to Juan Grande bridge. The cooperative creature stayed for a while, preening and doing Sunbittern stuff, for Osvaldo's delight. You can read the report (and watch the photo) here. Sometimes you get lucky when birding alone; so, congratulations Osvaldo!! I missed the show... I spent the weekend with my family and friends in Gorgona, central Panama coast. Nothing to report, except for the amusing flock of Sanderlings running from one side to another behind the waves.

Lucky moments

My encounter with the Green-and-rufous Kingfisher last sunday in Pipeline road made me remind some others lucky moments there. Why lucky? OK, consider this: in more than 15 years birding Pipeline road, this is my first G&RKF there (and only my second one ever). I know the book assures it is rare to uncommon; but, as others birds, it is simply a rare sighting. Perhaps some birds are simply unconspicuous, maybe others are not around anymore (Crimson-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-eared Toucanet, Black-crowned Antpitta). Anyway, I think is a good excuse to write about some others lucky moments that I have had in this place (and for posting pictures of great birds, though the pics are not so great). Remember that this are just my lucky moments... Pipeline road has a long list of lucky guys seeing absolutely terrific birds (Black-collared Hawk, Uniform Crake, Oilbird, Green Ibis, and so on...).

Agami Heron: this colourful forest rivers denizen was photographed on april 09 in Frijolitos (right by the bridge). Only one other sighting, more than ten years ago in Agua Salud, wading the river, deep inside Pipeline road. Great Curassow: a family group beyond Sirystes, the same day I saw my first Agami, is the only record I got of this species in Pipeline road.

Sungrebe: maybe not an uncommon bird, but definitively a rare sighting without the aid of a boat. My three sightings have been so far in november 08 and january 09 in the stretch of Gatun Lake reachable from the Rainforest Discovery Center. Marbled Wood-Quail: only two coveys by now. The last one between Juan Grande and Frijolitos a couple of months ago.Capped Heron: an individual flying over the Rainforest Discovery Center three months ago is my only sighting from Pipeline road (my photo is from Summit ponds, where it seems to be regular at the end of the dry season). Rufous-crested Coquette: a single male over the Juan Grande bridge 14 years ago is my only sighting... but it has been recorded in the Rainforest Discovery Center more recently.Sunbittern: at least three sightings in Juan Grande and Limbo, but none in several years (I have been luckier with this one in Plantation road and the western highlands where I took this picture). Wing-banded Antbird: two sightings (one week between both) on june 1997 close to "El Alamo", in Limbo.Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo: OMG!!!, this magnificent ground dweller is the reason why our hearts want to leave of the chest whenever we find a big antswarm. This january 09's photo gave me 15 minutes of fame... even Robert Ridgely commented on it via e-mail! My only other sighting was many years ago during a Christmas Birds Count in Limbo.

So, are you ready to grab your bins and camera and to expect the unexpected next time in Pipeline road?

Sunday in Pipeline road

Taking advantage of my free day, I went today with Osvaldo (no last name required) to the Gamboa area. Not an early start because we were more interested in photography and the light was not good enough. One thing is for sure... Pipeline road is getting popular among both visitors and locals. The parking lot was full of cars and we crossed many scientists, hikers, joggers, bikers and birders along the way. We drove directly to Juan Grande where we found our big surprise of the day. I saw "something" flying inside some bushes when crossing the bridge. Through a little space in the foliage I distinguished a typical kingfisher silhouette, a little bigger than the usual Green Kingfisher that we are used to see there... but it quickly flew away and perched over the water. Using my binoculars I saw the rufous underparts with no white at all... a Green-and-rufous Kingfisher!!! and it flew again after a short glimpse, and Osvaldo didn't see it. We walked along the muddy riverbank and after a couple of meters I saw the bird again, this time nicely perched behind a bunch of dead leaves. It took some time to place ourselves in order to start shooting our cameras, but at least we got a couple of recognizable pictures. Pretty shy for a kingfisher! Happy with our luck, we continued. The bird activity was low after our first sighting... only few antwrens and antshrikes, but eventually we found an antswarm attended by Bicolored and Spotted Antbirds, Gray-headed Tanagers and a Plain-brown Woodcreeper. An antswarm in the tropics always is a good find... except if you are so amazed enjoying the birds that forget the ants that are going towards you!! This particular antswarm was composed of thousands of little black ants, smaller and faster than the Eciton burchelli that usually we found, and it was not until we feel the bites in our ankles that we realize that we were in the middle of it!!! We stepped aside for a while, but the birds were so tame that I kept shooting. Being a little swarm, it did not have Ocellated Antbirds, always a spectacular guest to see... but the Spotted Antbirds offered a great show, jumping to few feet of us, vocalizing incessantly its buzzing calls that, with those of the Bicolored Antbirds, make unmistakable the sound of an approaching antswarm. Now, more than happy and thirsty, we drove to the Rainforest Discovery Center for a soda or two. Of course I took my time to photograph the hummingbirds, with a cooperative White-vented Plumeleteer being the highlight, gleaming with natural sunlight... but I must admit that those Blue-chested Hummingbirds are really spectacular when facing the sun. Well, a nice day after all, with no rain at all despite the weather forecast.

P.D. : if you have any idea of the identity of this winged friend below, let me know.

Rainy day

October is one of the most rainy months of the year in Panama, and we verified it last saturday, during our day visit to El Valle de Anton. The day started good, with clear skies, but it became dark rapidly. Our first stop was close to Los Llanitos ("Todies Land") where we recorded ALL the motmots species found in Panama, with Tody Motmot in my saw-and-barely-photographed list (as I have said before, they are very tough to photograph). After a quick hot coffee and a piece of pineapple pie in a little bakery close to the famous "mercado" in El Valle, we headed to the Cerro Gaital Natural Monument where a smiley-faced Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth welcomed us. By mid-morning the day was dark and chilly, with some dropplets falling down, but that didn't stop us. We walked the loop trail (El Convento) reaching only the second station. In the way we saw a nice Green-crowned Brilliant and a mixed flock of Silver-throated Tangers, Common Bush-Tanagers, Bananaquits and very cooperative Black-faced Grosbeaks (a huge group, maybe 15 individuals). A little noise in the understore resulted in a Nine-banded Armadillo who quickly ran away. The migrants were represented by Canada, Blackburnian and Mourning Warblers plus Swainson's Thrushes. It soon began to rain, so we headed back just in time to reach the car when a heavy downspur covered everything. We left El Valle, calling it a day not before a short visit to the lowlands of El Chiru, but it was late and we only saw very common birds (plus a nice Pearl Kite). The return journey was under a rainstorm all the way to Panama city, but at least it was refreshing!

Waiting the Mega Flock

Yes... I know is still september but I was hoping to find earlier this year the mega flock of migratory sandpipers. Every year, a huge number of sandpipers (mostly Western and Semipalmated) spent the winter in Panama's Upper Bay, most of them arriving in october. It is the best month to look for vagrants among the thousands of peeps. Anyway, I tried yesterday the usual spots (Costa del Este and Panama Viejo) finding only the usual suspects (Black-bellied Plovers, Whimbrels, Willets, Black-necked Stilts, Greater Yellowlegs, and few Semipalmated and Western Sandpipers) in Costa del Este. My heart accelerated for a second when I saw a peep with an unusual rusty back (thinking on a MUCH rarer Stint or something like that) but otherwise identical to the accompanying Western Sandpipers. It was a lot of fun to watch the noisy Spotted Sandpipers doing nothing else but to chase each other... when do they eat? Of course, there were hundreds of residents birds, including pelicans, egrets and cormorants in the beach. In Panama Viejo I saw again the Gull-billed Terns and the adult Ring-billed Gull among the Laughings close to the Visitor Center, but the sandpipers were too far away even for my binoculars. Well, I suppose that I must be kept waiting.

A Beautiful Desert

After visiting Herrera's wettest place in the morning, we drove to the driest one in the evening. The Sarigua desert is not a true desert actually, but a fragile coastal ecosystem known as "albina". Most of its tree-less landscape is due to the deforestation during the last century, though the area is also known as an important archaeological site. It is protected by its own national park, located in coastal Herrera, close to the town of Parita. Of course, we were looking for birds in this arid habitat. Our first stop was at the Visitor Center where we walked a little trail through cacti and xerofitic vegetation, following the call of a Crested Bobwhite nearby, and finding Prothonotary Warbler, Blue-black Grassquit, Eastern Wood-Pewee and Mouse-colored Tyrannulet. A Bananaquit was eating in a cactus. I'm amazed by the adaptability of this little friend. You can find it in humid montane forest, residential gardens, and is doing just great in that arid site! We climbed the observation tower near the Center to have a panoramic view of the surroundings. There were some shallow lagoons in the distance that seemed to be full with birds, so we decided to drive in that direction. Shortly after we started to drive, a couple of ground-doves flew to the side of the road. A quick search and soon we were watching a beautiful pair of Common Ground-Doves. This dove is only common, as its name suggests, in this part of the country, being absent in places just to the north or south. They were the first of many pairs that we encountered later. When we reached the lagoons, soon we identified most of the birds. Most of them were Western and Semipalmated Sandpipers with few Least Sandpipers. A group of plovers proved to be Collared, while some Black-necked Stilts and Black-bellied Plovers were feeding in the open. The lagoons next to the mangroves in the other side of the park seemed promising, so we headed in that direction too. The road didn't reach those lagoons, so we parked the car and walked through a fantastic landscape of rocky formations for a kilometer or two. We found tons of herons and egrets, Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, Whimbrels, Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, White Ibis, Laughing Gulls and Least Terns. We wanted to get closer, but it was getting late, so we started to return. We found more birds in the way back, including migrating Eastern Kingbirds and Barn, Bank and Cliff Swallows, Fork-tailed Flycatchers and flocks of Yellow-crowned Amazons going to roost. It was a long day, full of contrasting experiences, a really nice way to taste some of Panama's great diversity.

More than birds

What I like about birdwatching is that it allows you to know many sites, cultures and nature marvels while you are seeking the birds. That´s why I was so excited by my last trip. With Gloriela, Osvaldo Quintero and Rafael Luck, I visited yesterday El Montuoso Forest Reserve, in Herrera province. Although the list of birds recorded there isn´t spectacular, the simple idea of visiting a new site for me in Panama was fascinating. Not only that, the journey was also interesting, crossing some very traditional towns, like Pesé (home of the locally popular Seco Herrerano), Las Minas de Ocú, and so on... After an overnight stay in Chitre (Herrera's capital city), we headed to El Montuoso early in the morning. That is a picturesque road, through pastures and grasslands, little towns with clay houses, and charming people with their "machetes" in hand. After Pesé, the road becomes hilly, specially after Las Minas de Ocú, with great views of the surrounding lowlands (check the photo). Around 8:00 am we reached the ANAM's Tres Picos ranger station where we met the rangers who had an special guest, professor Victor Martínez, a renowned herpetologist in Panama. He was collecting snakes with a group of students of the University of Panama. After a short introduction (and after paying the entrance fee), we walked the loop trail behind the station. It runs along a creek, crossing it several times. It is amazing that a humid forest like that one still survives in the Herrera province. Our main target was the Brown-backed Dove, a national and enigmatic endemic that would have been a life bird for Osvaldo and Rafael. Although we dipped on it, we found many others birds. In the beginning of the trail we found a lek of Lance-tailed Manakins close to a pair of Orange-collared Manakins, our other target for the day. They were not easy to photograph, as you can guess by my photo, but a regional endemic anyway! Other birds recorded were Chestnut-backed Antbird, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Black-and-white, Yellow and Rufous-capped Warblers, Blue-throated Goldentail and the third species of manakin for the day: a beautiful male White-ruffed Manakin with contrasting white vent. During the return we found another mixed flock, this time with Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers and Golden-crowned Warblers, plus one or two Orange-billed Sparrows. I saw a flycatcher accompanying the group with olive-green back and two ochraceous wing bars. When it turned around I was able to see the dusky markings in its face: a Sepia-capped Flycatcher! an unexpected life bird for me. Happy with the finding, we headed to the station where the professor ask us if we were lucky with snakes (while chasing a really BIG tarantula). He thinks that we find many snakes while birding. I didn't agree, until we find a long and thin green snake (maybe a Green Vine Snake) right in the entrance of the loop trail only ten minutes later! After watching the snake for several minutes, we continue our way, looking for the dove, which never appeared. This didn't discourage us since we were astonished by that charming forest. It is like an island in the middle of a sea of devastation, the last remaining oasis for those spectacular birds and animals in the Herrera province... at least it is protected. It was getting hot so we left the place, heading to Las Minas de Ocú where we had our tasty meal: rice, lentils and meat. The owner of the fonda where we ate offered us a "pesada"; a nance dessert prepared with the addition of sugar, flour, milk and a piece of white cheese... delicious! It is a quite common dessert in rural Panama. We took some pictures of the little town, its central plaza and its church before heading to the coast (1.5 hour away) to the El Agallito beach, near Chitre, where we had a cold beer while watching some waders and Mangrove Warblers. From pastures to forests, hills to beaches, tarantulas and snakes to life birds, that's why I like birdwatching!

Free weekend, short trips

This weekend was a really busy one for me. Anyhow, I managed to visit few places close to the city with my camera. Starting yesterday, taking advantage of the not too very high tide in the morning, I stopped at the mouth of the Matías Hernández river in Costa del Este. This site is known by the flocks of gulls and sandpipers that gather there, sometimes with really nice goodies (even a new species for Panama!). Unfortunately, the flock was not close, and it seemed to be composed mainly by Laughing Gulls, plus a lonely Black Skimmer. Resting with the gulls was a group of Marbled Godwits and Black-bellied Plovers too far away for my camera. A group of Semipalmated Plovers with Spotted Sandpipers and Whimbrels was closer, allowing me some shots. Then, I drove to Panama Viejo, checking the mudflats between the tower and the Visitor Center. A Ring-billed Gull was among the Laughings plus tons of Brown Pelicans and Neotropic Cormorants. There were Semipalmated and Western Sandpipers too, and many other common birds (Willets, Yellowlegs, and so on...), but I didn't stayed long because is simply a bad idea if you are alone (specially with binoculars and camera equipments clearly visible). So, I stopped at the Visitor Center where some Gull-billed Terns were delicately picking food of the surface, watching a Ruddy Turnstone (not so ruddy) flying by and Yellow-crowned Night-Herons right in the open in the middle of the day. The little patch of mangroves was full of pelicans, cormorants, egrets and herons, but no storks like other times. The garden and the grass at the Center hold a family group of Saffron Finches, now a common bird in Panama City. It never fails to impress with its bright yellow body. With that in mind, I finished my duties for the day and went to the dance presentation of my 5-years old nephew at his school in the afternoon. Today, I went to Gamboa, with Osvaldo Quintero. As usual, the first stop was in the Ammo Dump, where the resident Tiger-Herons were waiting for us. A female Olivaceous Piculet quickly appeared just for a couple of minutes, while a pair of babies Capybaras were having breakfast very close to us. After a few pictures, we headed to the Rainforest Discovery Center, enjoying a group of Purple-throated Fruticrows right in the installations, building a nest. Males and females were bringing nesting material, announcing its arrival noisily. We walked some trails with no luck, just to find a huge mixed flock right in the parking lot. The birds cooperated, allowing us nice views. Cinnamon and White-winged Becards, White-shouldered, Plain-colored and Golden-hooded Tanagers, Shining and Green Honeycreepers, Forest Elaenias, Brown-capped Tyrannulet, Yellow Warbler, Long-billed Gnatwren, just to mention a few. A beautiful male Purple-crowned Fairy was visiting the nearby Heliconias, just stopping for a second or so. My blurry picture does not do justice to it, but at least you can have a glance of the explosion of colours it gave to us when facing the sun. Every five minutes or so we added a new species to the flock... there is a Golden-collared Manakin and a Fasciated Antshrike... oh my lord look at that male Blue-crowned Manakin... is that an Empidonax over there? Wow, the action was intense, so we stayed an hour more or less. Back in the Center, we saw a single Squirrel Cuckoo hunt and eat at least ten big and fat worms in less than 15 minutes... that was a really hungry cuckoo! It was getting hot and late, so we started to return to Panama City, seeing a Ruddy-breasted Seedeater having lunch (a tasty spike) next to our window. Nice mix of birds for a short trip!