More Córdoba's ovenbirds

During my last trip to Córdoba, central Argentina, Jorge (avespampa.com.ar) showed me both endemic and widespread bird species.  I already talked about most of the endemic ovenbirds we saw (read this post).  About the widespread species... well, I was impressed by the number of furnariids (ovenbirds) that form part of the common Córdoba's avifauna.  I have to say that I really liked this scene.

This is the nest of one of the most common furnariid around Córdoba, the Rufous Hornero.  It looks exactly like the traditional ovens still in use in some parts of interior Panamá... and certainly in other parts of the world.  I took this photo of Gloriela and Gabrielle (then a 3 months-old baby) next to an oven in a little town close to Penonomé (central Panamá).

Amazing!  Now the name makes sense, since there are no horneros in Panamá.  In fact, there are almost no furnariids at all in central Panamá where I'm used to bird... well, not until the woodcreepers were included within the furnariids.  Yes... officially, the woodcreepers ARE ovenbirds, like this Narrow-billed Woodcreeper that we saw in chaco habitat close to the town of Quilino.

Certainly it looks pretty similar to some woodcreepers of the same genus here in Panamá.  But to be honest, I don't feel well naming these birds ovenbirds...; the tit-spinetails, on the other hand, is another story.  We saw two species: a Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail in Pampa de Achala and a group of Tufted Tit-Spinetails near Quilino.

In spite that ALL of the ovenbirds I saw were lifers for me, most of them belong to widespread groups. What I mean is that I've seen horneros, tit-spinetails, canasteros and cinclodes in other parts of South America.  That's why for me it was a great satisfaction to see members of completely new groups for me, like the Brown Cacholote (sorry, no photo)... and also unique ovenbirds with no obvious close relatives and absolutely GREAT names, like Firewood-gatherer and Lark-like Brushrunner.

Come on!  The brushrunner certainly was the most weird and spectacular ovenbird in the surroundings.  I dreamed of seeing this bird long before landing in Argentina... and I have to admit that at some point in the day I thought I would not see it; but Jorge always reassured me saying that this species was common, that it was only a matter of time, that this bird is peri-domiciliary.  By the end of the day, we headed to Quilino and then Jorge pointed them to me, yelling "Crestudos", it spanish name.  A group of four brushrunners were right by the road, close to a house as he predicted.  Some stayed in the ground, others flew to a nearby tree.  The Lark-like Brushrunner was the last lifer for the day... what a great lifer!

P.D.: I mentioned that the brushrunner was the last lifer of the day... but not THE bird of the day... that title belongs to an endemic... stay tuned for details!

One day, MANY endemics!

Did I mention that Jorge and I saw some national endemics while birding the Sierras Grandes west of Córdoba (central Argentina)?  In my previous post, I pictured the Carbonated Sierra-Finch which is an Argentina endemic with a quite large distribution within the country.  Beside the sierra-finch, we found other three (3!) national endemics that day in Pampa de Achala.  The first one was a species that, like the sierra-finch, also has a large distribution within the boundaries of Argentina: the Cinnamon Warbling-Finch.

We saw a male mixed with Rufous-collared Sparrows as you can see in the photo.  There are some autumn and winter reports from Uruguay, but that seems to be a rare vagrancy pattern.  In contrast, the next species (and subspecies) are completely restricted to these plateau.  Jorge took me to the banks of the Yuspe river and waited.  Soon, one of our first targets showed up as expected by Jorge:

Previously considered a subspecies of a more widely distributed species, the Olrog's Cinclodes is essentially restricted to Pampa de Achala.  Notice the conspicuous white in the closed wing, the bicolored eyebrow and the short, thin bill.

We walked a little bit, finding another Olrog's Cinclodes, this time accompanied by a Common Miner... also an endemic subspecies (contrerasi) for these sierras.  The spanish name of "caminera" refers to the habit of walking that these birds exhibit.

After a while, we found other furnariid sharing the same riverine habitat: a White-winged Cinclodes.  Compared to Olrog's Cinclodes, notice the obvious longer bill, the striking white bar in the closed wings, and the darker look overall.  This is also an endemic subspecies, schocolatinus, looking quite different to the geographically distant nominate.

With our targets in the bag, we moved to the highest part of the road reached that day, the Cuchilla Nevada, well over the 1800 meters above sea level.  No water up there, only arid grassy and shrubby pampa with rocky stands.  Now, we were after other endemic, the third cinclodes species for the day.  We did several stops in apparently suitable sites... then, the bird materialized in front of us.

That's right: Cordoba Cinclodes!  Just with the name you can assume that this is a range-restricted endemic (even with its Latin name: Cinclodes comechingonus).  Notice the rufous wing band.  My  next photo shows the yellow base to the lower mandible... but that was not very evident in the field.

By that time, I was more than happy... but Jorge had another surprise for me.  We stopped at a different type of habitat... this time less rocky and more shrubby.  Some playback and then a Puna Canastero hopped into evidence atop a shrub.  This species was first described from these sierras, and some think that the other subspecies described later don't belong to this species... some even call this bird "Cordoba" Canastero.

That was really a great day... full of endemics and distinct forms.  As bonus, we visited the shores of the San Roque lake, in the Punilla valley, finding the forth species of cinclodes for the day: two Buff-winged Cinclodes.

Formerly part of the Bar-winged Cinclodes complex, this partially migratory species is restricted to the south cone of the continent... so it was a lifer for me!  Four Cinclodes in one day, all of them lifers for me... amazing!  But the lifers festival don't stop here... stay tuned for more!

Birding Córdoba's Sierras Grandes.

As I mentioned elsewhere, I visited Córdoba (central Argentina) attending an academic event some days ago.  After the event, I had some spare time for birdwatching.  Previous to my trip, I tried to contact a birding pal or professional tour guide to maximize my time finding the key species of the region... the first one to answer my beg was Jorge Martín Spinuzza (of avespampa.com.ar).  Kindly, Jorge offered to take me along several different habitats in order to find as many species as possible in the limited amount of time available.  His plan was to visit Córdoba's Sierras Grandes, a mountain range running from north to south, older than the high Andes and with a distinct avifauna.  The road to the higher parts crossed several different habitats, giving me the chance to see many species.  I'll focus  on those species seen in the highest parts of the sierras, those seen at the extensive foothills (piedemonte) and in the high plateau known as the Pampa de Achala, above 1800 meters above sea level (masl).  From there, several peaks elevate reaching over 2200 masl, including Los Gigantes (2350 masl), pictured in the background of the first photo.

The foothills were impressive... hundreds of kilometers of unobstructed view of the horizon, covered in grass, shrubs and some scattered trees, most of them introduced, around the houses and the estancias.  It was pretty good for raptors, like American Kestrel, Chimango Caracara and Southern Caracaras.  The above individual seemed to be nesting in those trees.  Compared to our Crested Caracaras, these birds looked larger, with more evident barring in the underparts and back.  We also saw a Variable Hawk perched on a rock fence... what a bird!

Certainly, this species have the most variable plumage of all the hawks... this is, evidently, of the "red-backed" form, perhaps a female due to its hugeness.  With all those raptors around, it is no surprise why this Spotted Nothura was crossing the road at full speed.

In contrast to our tinamues, this species was quite easy to spot... at least for some seconds before disappearing into the grass.  In fact, due to the habitat, most of the birds were quite easy to see.  In a quick succession we saw Southern Lapwings, Hellmayr's Pipit, Grassland Yellow-Finches, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, among others.  However, the most striking so far were the Long-tailed Meadowlarks.

This species, locally known as Loica, is represented up there by the endemic subspecies obscura... the first of many endemic forms we were about to see restricted to this mountain range.  In general, the birds of the higher parts (Pampa de Achala) recall those found in the high Andes.  For example, you  know you're not anymore in Panamá when a young Andean Condor soars above you!

Or this Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant that allowed great photos in the highest part of the road (Cuchilla Nevada)... compare both species with my previous photos from Ecuador.

But there are BIG differences with the Andes.  The isolation of this range is the reason why there are so many distinct forms and even endemic species (more about them in my next post).  Take for example the sierra-finches (yes, if you are birding the sierra you expect sierra-finches).  The most common, sometimes in flocks of 15 - 20 birds, were the Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches.  Not an endemic species (I had seen this -and the next species- in the Andes of Perú and Ecuador), but represented there by the endemic subspecies naroskyi.  The same for the Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, represented in these sierras by the endemic subspecies cyaneus (compare with my previous photo from Ecuador).

I posted the photos of these two species next to each other so you can notice the faint facial marks and blurry streaks on the back of the Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch, and the more uniform bluish-gray color of the Plumbeous Sierra-Finch... field marks to ID correctly these guys.  But we saw another species of sierra-finch... not in the highest parts, but in the foothills.  Jorge was excited about the finch we were photographing.  Notice the lack of rufous or chestnut in the ear covers of the female and the extensive black underparts of the young male.

Carbonated Sierra-Finches!  This species is endemic of Argentina, and not that common for that place.  The field marks pointed above separate this species from the similar Mourning Sierra-Finch (that I saw in Perú many years ago).  The curious thing is that I just realized this bird is a national endemic... in the field it was just another lifer!  The Carbonated Sierra-Finch was the last endemic I saw that day... if you want to know the endemics we got earlier, don't miss my next post.

Córdoba, in the heart of Argentina

The city of Cordoba, the second in importance of Argentina, lies in the geographical center of this south-american country, and is rich in history and culture.  Founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera in lands inhabited by the Comechingones people, the city is proud of its inheritance, colonial and modern history and economic growth.

I had the great pleasure to visit this city recently in the frame of the Argentine Congress of Gastroenterology and Digestive Endoscopy to attend the Course of Gastroenterology and Digestive Endoscopy for Young Gastroenterologist.  At least one -young- gastroenterologist of each LatinAmerican country participated in this rather intensive course: Guatemala, El Salvador, Costa Rica, República Dominicana, Colombia, Ecuador, Perú, Brasil, Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina and, of course, Panamá.

The young gastroenterologists with their professors

Besides the academic experience, what I really appreciated was the cultural experience.  Think about it: so may different cultures sharing tales and celebrating the differences.  Saying this, I have to admit that I really enjoyed dinner time my friends!

1905 Postal card

Our hosts planned everything to make us feel like home, and it was a complete success!  About the touristic itinerary, first of all, the hotel where we were staying was right in the historic center of the city, just steps away of the Jesuitic block and the San Martín Plaza.  In fact, they planned a short city tour to this plaza where some of us learned a lot about the first years of the city and many other things.  The architecture around the plaza is mostly colonial, as you can see in the photos... but there are some other styles mixed, as you can see in the cathedral.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Asunción (Iglesia Catedral) in the San Martin Plaza

What a great experience!  Cordoba is a great city, and the cordobeses are great hosts!

Some of my companions had free extra days to explore other touristic regions of Argentina, like Buenos Aires, Bariloche and so on..., that was not my case; instead, I had enough spare time to explore the natural beauties around the city... as you will see in my next posts, so stay tuned!

Backyard birding at the finca

We like to go to Penonomé (central Panamá) for several reason... to escape of the noisy city, to breath fresh air, to share with friends and relatives and to relax.  However, I also take advantage to bird.  We spend last weekend in town, and I did a quick visit to the Aguadulce Salinas... but also did some birding in Gloriela's family finca in the outskirts of town.  Some years ago, this was pasture land... now is alive with trees and, of course, birds!

A short walk around the cabin produced several common species for this dry, secondary habitat.  The first I saw was a Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant.  The "pygmy" part of its name is well deserved; however, the pale iris is not that evident in the field.  So far, I have always encountered this species close to the creek, the most humid part of the property.

I followed the creek for a while.  It is fresher under the burning sun, both for humans and birds!  Besides, many species are only found in that area... like our resident lek of Lance-tailed Manakins.  I saw several males... but they were shy.  Only this female stayed enough for a photo.  Notice the long and pointy central rectrices.

Others species along the creek were Rufous-capped Warbler, Yellow-olive and Sepia-capped Flycatchers... but they were shier, so I went to the more open areas hoping to find more photogenic subjects.  In fact, the open savanna with scattered trees is ideal for photographing... this Lineated Woodpecker proved me right.

I also saw Tropical Kingbirds, Streaked, Great Crested and Panama Flycatchers, Yellow-bellied and Lesser Elaenias and Groove-billed Anis.  In opposition to what happens around Panamá City, in Penonomé, the Groove-billeds are the most common anis.

 

Well, just a typical day in the savannas.

Huge numbers in Aguadulce!

As you may know by now, the Aguadulce Salinas (saltponds) are just 30 minutes away of our house in Penonomé (central Panamá).  I took advantage of this proximity and visited the saltponds very early last sunday hoping to find interesting species closer to the road due to the low traffic at that time... and it worked.

As you can see, the diversity and numbers were awesome... and this is only a fraction of the flock!  Can you see how many species were together in that pond?  The Roseate Spoonbill was, by far, the most attractive bird... the pink shade comes from the food it eats: tiny crustaceans rich in carotenoids produced by the algae they eat as well.  The Wood Stork is not exactly a beauty...but is extremely elegant when flying.  I saw no less than 500 storks along the ponds... and amazing number at any season.

Most egrets and herons were fairly numerous as well, but not as the storks.  The most common was the Great Egret as you can see in the first photo.  Also recorded were Snowy and Cattle Egrets, Great Blue, Little Blue, Tricolored and Green Herons.  The Black-necked Stilts were abundant too... but they like to congregate in little, sparse groups all over the ponds.  They are resident there (the only known breeding site in Panama), but the numbers increase with the arrival of northern migrants.

Despite migration has just started, the ponds were covered in migrant shorebirds and plovers.  Thousands of peeps (including Western, Semipalmated and Least Sandpipers), Semipalmated Plovers and both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs were feeding at the ponds.  This Greater Yellowlegs shows the typical bicolored (paler to the base), slightly upturned bill, separating it of the Lesser Yellowlegs.

However, it was another migrant that surprised me.  I found a resting group of Black Skimmers in a sand bar in the middle of a pond... not an unusual sight for the site, nor for the time of the year.  Then, more and more flocks started to arrive directly from the sea... I counted 238 birds (at least)... all seemed to belong to the race breeding in North America.

Some other species were simply more conspicuous than in other visits... that was the case of the White-winged Doves.  Restricted to the drier areas along the Parita Peninsula of central Panamá, this species is readily found along the street running parallel to the beach heading to the fishing town of El Salado.  I found many individuals, some in groups of three to four birds, some vocalizing.

The last bird I found in the ponds was also the less expected.  A basic-plumaged Red-necked Phalarope was swimming and feeding, bobbing its head nervously and allowing some shots.  This species is mainly pelagic... that is, usually found away of the coast in the sea; but Aguadulce is a quite regular site to see this migrant.  Well, what a great day at the saltponds!

P.D.:  I count eight (8) different species in the first photo.  How many do you?

Not only endemics in Cerro Santiago

Besides the endemic species and subspecies found in our last trip to the mountains of the Tabasará range, we also saw more widespread species of birds as you can imagine (read this entry for example).  The group of intrepid birders consisted of William Adsett, Dan Wade and Charles Davies... and for us, every species was special in its special way.  For example, check out this Spangle-cheeked Tanager... beautiful no matter how common it is!

We crossed several flocks, always three to six birds, most of the time mixed with other tanagers, finches and/or warblers.  One of those times, the mixed flock was accompanied by a female Black-and-Yellow Silky-Flycatcher.  This is an odd silky... it looks more like a colorful thrush, and some even think that this species doesn't belong to the family.

One important element in the Tabasará avifauna are the hummingbirds (as you may know by now).  Besides confusing female Selasphorus, we saw more common species.  In fact, the most common hummer all over the place was the Purple-throated Mountain-Gem.  The ground epiphytes along the road through the slopes of Cerro Santiago were frequently visited by these hummers, allowing nice shots (here, adult and immature males, adult female).

Others hummers for the area included Green Violetear, Violet Sabrewing, White-tailed Emerald, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, Green-fronted Lancebill and Green-crowned Brilliant.  The male brilliant pictured here is quite blurry... but trust me that it was a real jewel glowing inside a beautiful cloud forest along the Continental Divide trail (above 1700 meters above sea level).

Not only the birds were putting a show, we saw some mammals, like this Pygmy-Squirrel in one of those productive forest patches along the road to the Ngöbe town of Ratón.  We still need some help to ID this little friend.

And the critters were awesome too... Dan was our expert in this field, and we learned a lot.  I will end this post with the photo of one of the coolest critter that I have seen.  Enjoy!