Visiting Altos del Maria

I just came from Altos del María, a gated community in the foothills of western Panama province that have proved to be a good birding spot. Along with Osvaldo Quintero and Alfred Raab, an Altos' resident who kindly guided us through the area, we explored some nice areas with good access roads and good birds. Alfred was constantly saying that we were lucky because we found a sunny day without fog in the upper part of the housing development (La Rioca), where we walked La Coruña street finding a nice mixed flock right in the entrance, with Silver-throated Tanager and Common (very common) Bush-Tanagers, along with Rufous-capped Warblers (feeding youngs), Tufted Flycatcher, Thick-billed and White-vented Euphonias, at least two Yellow-billed Caciques and an Ochraceous Wren that Alfred immediately recognized by its Winter Wren-like call. A little farther we took a trail that leads to an observation tower, attracted by the frog-like call of two Purplish-backed Quail-Doves that eluded us despite our efforts... but bonus birds were the male Purple-throated Mountain-Gem and a shy Black Guan plus a spectacular view of the Cerro Trinidad in the distance. At the tower, we had a terrific view of the pacific lowlands, and of the forest at the foothills. It is possible to see both oceans in a clear day. We decided to visit some other sites before the fog covered everything. Among other species recorded were White Hawk, Pale-vented Thrush, a bright female Shiny Honeycreeper, Paltry and Southern Beardless Tyrannulets, Yellow-margined Flycatcher, Golden-hooded and Bay-headed Tanagers.

We start to return, stopping at the Styria gate (the "pyramid") from where you can see all the lower valley of El Maria, where the main community is. We found a big group of American Swallow-tailed Kites plus a Short-tailed Hawk soaring in a thermal. You don't very often see these birds at eye level, nor from above, so we enjoyed the sight for a few minutes. Then, we descended to the valley, to Alfred's place. Alfred have done a good job in his property, hanging feeders and making trails that hold many birds. Only in few minutes around noon we saw or heard Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Black-striped Sparrow, Plain, Rufous-breasted and Rufous-and-white Wrens, a nesting Streaked Saltator and Lance-tailed Manakins... all of them typical of drier forest (like the Metropolitan Natural Park here in the city) than the humid mossy-covered forest that we found in La Rioca (which lies over the 1100 meters above sea level and on the Continental Divide). After a quick lunch, we headed to El Valle road (that connects Altos del Maria with El Valle de Anton), but as soon we got to the forest, the rain and the fog showed up. This part of the valley was full of flowering Inga trees that are very good for small hummingbirds (we only saw Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds) Despite our waiting, the rain didn't stop, so we decided to head back to Panama City after a great day in the foothills. Alfred: thank you for everything, I hope to see you soon!

Birding El Cope N.P.

The General de División Omar Torrijos Herrera National Park is located above the picturesque town of El Cope (that's why is aka El Cope N.P.) in the central coclesian foothills and it harbors lots of western highlands species not found farther to the east. It protects one of the most beautiful montane cloud forest in Panama. The promise to find rare and elusive birds led me, Osvaldo Quintero and Hildegar Mendoza to this special place last sunday, blessed with an unusually good weather. After a 3-hours drive from Panama city, we met our local guide, Mr. Santana, at the rangers station and then we moved to the Visitor Center, where Rafael Luck and Euclides "Kilo" Campos were already waiting for us. They were returning from an intrepid one-day trip to Cobachón, following the instructions posted here (and yes, they saw the Azuero Parakeet). They had a surprise. While waiting for us, they walked the first part of the Snowcap (La Rica) trail finding several individuals of Bare-necked Umbrellabirds plus a Lattice-tailed Trogon!!! Wow... hoping not to miss the birds, we literally ran to the trail. Santana was the first to spot two short-crested Umbrellas' with no visible bare skin. They were feeding, one of them seemed curioser, allowing us to take some pictures (confirming our impression that it had white markings in the underparts... maybe a young bird?). After several minutes, a third bird appeared, this one being bigger and heavier with a partially hidden dull red bare skin in the throat, but a short crest. It fed in a more eminent way, shaking the branches wherefrom it was taking the fruits and even catching really BIG insects, striking them violently before swallowing them. Occasionally they vocalized, probably in response to our recording. We found a mixed flock, while watching the Umbrellabirds, composed by Tawny-crested, Black-and-yellow and Speckled Tanagers plus a group of three or four Yellow-throated Bush-Tanagers and a female Black-and-white Becard. Hildegar called my attention toward a tiny "baby" hummer that proved to be a female Snowcap, while Osvaldo was watching a Stripe-throated (Little) Hermit face-to-face. Farther in the trail we found another mixed flock, this time with Golden-olive Woodpecker, Carmiol's (Olive) Tanager, Tawny-capped Euphonia, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Slaty Antwrens, Tawny-faced Gnatwrens and Gray-breasted Wood-Wrens. Santana showed us a perched male Ruddy Quail-Dove that stayed for a couple of minutes. We started to return and then, someone flushed a reddish bird that landed a few meters away on a branch for a few seconds, enough to recognize it as a Chiriqui Quail-Dove, a bird only found at higher elevations, but seasonally common in that place according to Santana. You can see in the photo by Osvaldo (used with permission) the uniform reddish colour, the totally gray crown and the marked lores. The neck scalloping was more evident than the moustachial stripe in the field. Happy with the finding, we met again with Rafael and Kilo at the Visitor Center where we heard a Purplish-backed Quail-Dove, the third Quail-Dove of the day. Rafael and Kilo birded the Rana trail, finding a mixed flock of tanagers plus a Orange-bellied Trogon and a Striped Woodhaunter. We decided to walk the Helechos trail, a short loop trail behind the Visitor Center. Osvaldo had been lucky in this trail a year ago so he wanted to give it a chance. He played a recording of a Black-crowned Antpitta two or three times when suddenly it materialized only a few feet from me, responding with all its forces. A really spectacular bird as you can see in my photo. Also note the clay on the bill, maybe it was excavating a nest or looking for earthworms? Currently, taxonomic issues put this bird with the south american Gnateaters, all of them smaller than the Pittasoma. For me, it always will be an Antpitta. After a superb birding, we headed to the lowlands, to Penonome where we had our lunch. After some deliberations, we decided to go to El Gago, looking for some lowlands birds. As usual, we were lucky with the raptors, finding tons of Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures (a better name could be Multicolour-headed Vulture), Crested and Yellow-headed Caracaras, White-tailed and Pearl Kites, Roadside and Savanna Hawks, American Kestrels and two Aplomado Falcons. Others specialties were the Plain-breasted Ground-Doves, Mourning Doves and Crested Bobwhites along the road. A nice day with amazing creatures, great weather and even a life bird!

A Varied Weekend

My vacations have ended, but anyway I managed to have another free weekend. In order to spent it well, I joined Osvaldo Quintero and Rafael Luck in a birding trip to Cocle province last saturday, visiting new sites for Rafael's GPS. We headed to El Chirú, a place that holds some typical lowland species. At the first stop on the road we heard (and eventually saw) a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, the first of many Yellow-green Vireos, a cute Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet and many others. We decided to walk a side road with a plantation of Eucalyptus and other scattered trees in one side, and a open grassland at the other. Soon we heard a loud Bob, Bob-white!!! so we started to search in the surroundings for the hidden singer. After a few minutes we realized that a Crested Bobwhite was calling above us high on a tree (yes, on a tree!). A flock of Brown-throated Parakeets flew around the Eucalyptus, allowing us eventually to spot some couples. The place got hot quickly, so we started to walk back, not before exploring another side road that was seeming promising for raptors, but finding instead a mixed group of birds that included Lesser and Yellow-bellied Elaenias, Plain-breasted and Ruddy Ground-Doves, Panama, Social and Boat-billed Flycatchers, and a Pale-breasted Spinetail. Then, we drove to Juan Hombron, a little to the west and still in the lowlands close to the coast. The agricultural field proved to be very good for raptors. We found White-tailed Kite, Savanna Hawk, Crested and Yellow-headed Caracara and an American Kestrel of the isabellinus race. A bit dehydrated, we drove toward El Valle de Anton to have lunch and to drink some water. Renergized by the drinks and the fresh climate, we decided to bird the entrance to the Gaital Natural Monument... finding much of the same as in our last visit, plus a White-tailed Emerald and a group of Common Bush-Tanagers. We tried to visit Los Llanitos, but the rain ruined our last plan for the day, so we headed back to the city.

But this continues... Next day, very early in the mourning, I met the participants of the PAS fieldtrip to Cerro Azul. The plan of the day was to bird the Río Mono trail, making some stops along the way. In the first stop, we found a pair of Black Phoebes, an uncommon sight in this part of the country. Then, at a viewpoint, we saw a pair of Blue Dacnis from above. Before reaching the entrance of the trail, we found a nice mixed flock with Blue-gray, Palm, Crimson-backed, Bay-headed and Plain-colored Tanagers, Green and Red-legged Honeycreepers, a very cooperative Yellow Tyrannulet, a group of Scaled Pigeons and many more. The trail was steppy, slippery and quiet, through a beautiful forest where we found three different manakins (Red-capped, Blue-crowned and White-ruffed), Short-billed Pigeons, Speckled Tanagers, Wood-Wrens and Stripe-throated (aka Little) Hermits. The rain was threatening to fall above us, so we decide to visit Birder's View, where the Kaufmanns had some snacks and sodas already prepared. The rain forced us to go indoors because the temperature quickly dropped (contrasting with my previous day). It was time to relax, talk with friends and to view the photos captured during the day. When the rain stopped, we decided to make it a day, not before enjoying a Bay-headed Tanager and a White-ruffed Manakin feeding in a little bush right at the entrance of the house. So, it was a varied weekend, with so many habitats, weather, birds and friends.

Todies' Land

Nop, I'm not going to write about the Greater Antilles because I'm not referring to those todies. I refer to the Tody Motmots, the smallest member of its mainly Central American family. There is something about these birds... they are rare and little known in Panama, but also very attractive and smart. Last saturday I went with Osvaldo Quintero and Rafael Luck to El Valle de Anton in search of this little friend. We explored a side road close to the little town of Los Llanitos on the way to El Valle. We already had experience with todies on this road last May, seeing at least three different individuals along a little creek at the far end of the road. This time, our plan was to bird from the road itself and quickly we heard the call of one of them. Using a recording, we attracted THREE different todies that soon lost any interest in us. Further ahead on the road we saw and photographed others THREE different individuals. They are not easy to photograph. We always found them in shaded places with lots of tangles, usually always behind a leaf or a branch. In addition, they seem to be unsociable enough, moving away rapidly after a quick inspection of the intruders. Then, from a safe perch, they remain still (usually too far for my lens), moving its tail from one side to another, just like others motmots. I'm surprised of finding such a big population in a disturbed area like that one. In fact, not any of the others species recorded in the area are associated with forest (we saw many common species, and heard a Sepia-capped Flycatcher). I have seen todies before, but usually in large tracks of forest (where they are more entrusted with the observer, for example, in Chucanti). Not enough with this, there are many others reports of todies in El Valle itself, specially around the Canopy Lodge area. Of course we birded the El Valle and La Mesa areas, without finding any other tody (we have never been lucky in that place anyway), but seeing a nice mixed flock in the entrance of the Gaital Natural Monument (Tawny-crested and Silver-throated Tanagers, Bananaquits, Tawny-capped Euphonia, Slate-colored Grosbeak and so on...) and a White-tipped Sicklebill perched on Heliconias along the road to La Mesa. So, if you still needs the Tody for your life list, go to Todies' land and have fun.

The Journey to Cobachon

After saying good bye to our captain in El Ciruelo, we headed west away from Pedasí. The road is in very good condition all the way to Cambutal, except by the stretch between Cañas and Tonosí. The Mourning Doves were abundant along the road, and even we saw a covey of Crested Bobwhites crossing it. We arrived to Cambutal before noon and parked our car where the asphalt road ends. After asking for some directions and tips, we started to walk the dirt road to Cobachon, a little town in the coast 22 km away. The first 10 km were more or less flat, but then it became hilly and gruelling. The rain accompanied us almost all the way and we had little time because it was getting dark. Anyway, we enjoyed the beauty of the landscapes, the furious sea breaking into the rocky coast, the long and desolate beaches meeting the forested hills full of colourful crabs and the chilly streaming rivers along the way. Despite the hurry, we saw some birds on the way. A Bare-throated Tiger-Heron in the Peña Blanca river and a Black-hooded Antshrike close to the Portobelo river were the highlights. After 6.5 hours (and slightly sad, thinking that we wouldn't make it), we reached an open grassy area with a old sign in its far end, close to the beach. Only after checking it with my binoculars I realize that we reached Cobachon!!, but wait a minute... the place seemed as a ghost town... without sign of life. After 10 long minutes, we saw two kids playing in the beach and soon his smiling dad introduced himself as Daniel Saénz. I immediately recognized the name... he is listed in the book Where to find birds in Panama as THE one can guide you around the place. We were lucky to find him in town. Nicely, he offered us his house and a hot dinner, quickly prepared by his wife. We talked that night about a lot of things, including the Azuero Parakeet. Soon he was telling me about Francisco Delgado, Robert Ridgely, the Englemans and many others that he guided before to Cerro Hoya. He knows many english names of birds and knows very well the behavioral aspects of the parakeet (where and when it occurs, what it eats, its calls, and so on...), and we agree to work out early the following day to look for the parakeet. The Azuero Parakeet was discovered in 1979 by Francisco Delgado and is endemic of the Cerro Hoya and surroundings in the Azuero peninsula. First described as a subspecies of the south american Painted Parakeet, its differences in plumage and its amazing isolation prove to be a different species. Cerro Hoya itself is an unique ecosystem at the Azuero peninsula and is protected by the national park that bears the same name. In the morning of july 21st, we started hiking along the Cobachon river, entering its valley. After an hour, we started climbing the hills looking for the flocks to appear. Soon, Daniel found the first (of many) pair of Great Green Macaws eating quietly the fruits of a nance tree (Byrsonima crassifolia). When they flew across the valley, we admired theirs long and colourful tails and blue flight feathers, contrasting with the green body... amazing! Then, Daniel saw a group of at least 12 Azuero Parakeets perched on a Higueron (Ficus sp.) that flew directly toward us and perched very close...WOW... the Azueros right in front of us and I was so excited watching them that I did not manage to take photos in that moment. What a beautiful bird, hard to describe... and so unique! We found later a different group eating from the fruiting higuerones and guarumos (Cecropia sp.) and I managed to take some blurry photos, but at least the bird is recognizable. The experience revived us since, in spite of our weariness, we descended from the hill, packed our things, say goodbye to the Saénz family and tackled the return, arriving to Cambutal at 7 p.m. That night we got some analgesic and antiinflamatory pills... every single muscle fiber was hurting. I still have a swollen ankle and Gloriela barely moves... but we are happy with the experience. After all, no pain no birds.

Well, are you ready to look for the Azuero Parakeet at Cobachon? Here are some tips:

1. Announce that you are going: Cobachon only has three families, and maybe only Daniel can guide you around, so it is better to count with him. Leave a message with Radio Peninsula (995-4214).

2. Hire a boat in Cambutal: the ride is more or less one hour and they charge you around a hundred dollars the round trip. Ask for the service in the Casa González (where the asphalt road ends).

3. If you want to take the scenic road, then plan it with time: the topography is difficult and the road does not have any sign. The locals will tell you that it can be walked in 5 hours, but they are used to walk long distances and they know shortcuts through the beaches to skip the hills. The road climbs eight hills, the third one being specially demanding. Ask everyone you cross in the way for directions, because you have to turn aside of the road while climbing the sixth hill (be kept to the coast)

4. Read all you can about the road and the place (Where to find birds in Panama, Almanaque Azul -spanish only-, the web, and so on...).

Happy birding!

And The Action Continues...

That's right. We didn't stop after the Santa Fe fieldtrip. Instead, we headed south to the Azuero Peninsula and stayed in the town of Pedasí (hometown of the first woman president of Panama). We wake up early on monday morning and meet our captain at El Ciruelo port (with an adult Bare-throated Tiger-Heron close to the beach). Our destination: the Frailes islands and its colony of seabirds. The last time I visited the islands, there were no terns on it (you can read a narrative of that trip here). The only other occasion I visited the islands was more than ten years ago and back then I did not notice any Sooty Tern, despite the fact that the islands were full of breeding birds (maybe simply I was unable to separate them from the Bridled Terns). This time I was prepared and, after reading some fieldguides and seeing many plates, I printed in my mind the following differences to look in the Sooties:

1. Heavier look with broader wings

2. Less white in the underwing
3. Less contrast between crown and mantle

4. Lack of complete white nape collar

5. Bigger white forehead patch not extending behind the eye

Maybe you can pick apart the Sooty Tern from these pics:

As you can see, we saw both of them, the Bridleds being commoner, and the Sooties restricted to south Frailes Islands, where we noticed another thing: the low pitched voice of the Sooties, quite different from the high nasal calls of the Bridleds. Other birds seen breeding in the islands were the Brown Noddies (the commonest) and the Brown and Blue-footed Boobies. There were also Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds, but none seemed to be breeding in the islands. On the way back, between Frailes north and south, we saw a lonely Galapagos Shearwater close to the boat. The sea and the clouds cooperated and gave us a calm return to mainland, where we prepared ourselves for the next journey.

PAS Fieldtrip to Santa Fe

Last weekend I went with Gloriela to western Panama to attend the PAS fieldtrip to Santa Fe National Park, in the Veraguas' highlands. The trip started on friday when we decided to visit Las Macanas marsh in Herrera before heading north to Santa Fe. We not stayed long because of the rising heat, but still found some central lowlands specialties like Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Glossy Ibis, lots of herons, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, and an Aplomado Falcon in the access road. The telephone poles along the Carretera Nacional held many raptors, including caracaras, Savanna Hawks and at least other three Aplomados! It was a nice beginning for the trip. After getting some supplies in Santiago, we drove the windy road to Santa Fe, arriving with the last light and meeting the others six PAS members that were attending the trip, including Karl and Rosabel Kaufmann, our guides. Soon we heard the characteristic call of a Feruginous Pygmy-Owl. Although I thought it was far away, Rosabel used her spotlight and almost immediately showed us the little bird perched on the tree right in the center of the garden! Wow, it was a very good first fieldtrip bird. The next day, early in the morning, we took the Altos de Piedra - Guabal road, but unfortunately, the first car got stuck in a mud pool beyond Altos de Piedra. Part of the group kept walking the road to a tributary of the Mulaba river, where is a sign indicating the boundaries for the national park.

Along the road we saw Black-faced Grosbeaks, Crimson-collared, Flame-rumped, Bay-headed and Plain-colored Tanagers, aracaris and toucans, and a flock of Sulphur-winged Parakeets. Soon the rest of the group reached us after some locals help them with the cars. Beyond that particular mud pool, the road is in good conditions all the way to Guabal, in the Caribbean slope. We stopped close to the site where the new facilities of the park are being constructed, around 600 to 800 meters above sea level, barely still on the Pacific slope. We noticed some flock activity, mainly Dusky-faced Tanagers, in some fruiting Melastomas. Then someone noticed a quite different bird accompanying the tanagers. Soon we recognized it as a Bush-Tanager (and the Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager had been reported from that site), with dull olive upperpart (including crown), gray face and throat (with no yellow or white), black iris, dull yellow breast band (contrasting) and whitish gray underparts, making it a Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager, a bird only known from Bocas del Toro's foothills (in Panama). Happy with the finding, we attempt to reach the Continental Divide, but a rainstorm hit us, making us return to our hotel. We spent the evening in Altos de Piedra, under a cloudy sky. Little bird activity, but a promising habitat for next day's mourning. After the dinner, we saw how the panamenian soccer team was defeated by the americans due to a penal kick in the second time. A bit sad, we fall asleep with the calls of our resident pygmy-owl. Sunday mourning was cloudy, but anyway we birded the Altos de Piedra trail, finding woodcreepers, antbirds, antshrikes and flatbills, all typical of more humid forests. After a long search, we managed to locate the Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush that was singing in the understore. The last bird seen was a Violet Sabrewing inside the forest, close to a bunch of Heliconias. After all, we enjoyed a nice mix of birds and great landscapes from windy roads with a group of old and new friends.

Western Hummingbirds Gallery

The hummingbirds are among my favorite bird families (only second after the tanagers). These avian jewels are designed exquisitely to obtain the flowers' nectar that supports their busy lives and are readily attracted to feeders, making them popular among the birders (and non-birders too). I already posted a link to a video of a lowland hummingbird feeder close to Gamboa, in central Panama (see the bottom of the lateral bar), but now, I want to post some pics of these beautiful creatures that I got in my last trip to Panama's western highlands. Most of them were photographed while visiting my friends Glenn & Janet Lee in their lovely Cielito Sur B & B Inn (the best breakfast that I ever tasted) last saturday. Others were higher up, above Cerro Punta. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of neither the Selasphorus hummingbirds, nor of the spectacular Fiery-throated Hummingbird, endemics to Costa Rica and Western Panama. The following two species were photographed in the area of Fortuna Forest Reserve. The road that leads to the Continental Divide Trail has been asphalted all the way to the transmission tower, allowing me to park my car in front of a bunch of flowers (already in the Caribbean slope), where I simply waited.Finally, though they aren't restricted to the western highlands, the following two species are so common at the hummingbird feeders in Cielito Sur that deserve to be included in this gallery. Others species restricted to this area and sighted during my last trip, but not included, were the Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and the White-throated & White-bellied Mountain-Gems.

Happy Birding!

Bocas' Lowlands

Saturday's evening and Sunday's morning found us bidwatching the Two Tanks Road in Chiriqui Grande, Central Bocas del Toro. Earlier, on saturday, the conditions of the Pipeline road after the Fortuna dam prevented us from birding the usual spots in the Bocas' foothills. Several landslides were partially blocking the road (and I couldn't find the entrance to the Verrugosa trail) and some streams overflew on the way, making difficult to stop in the usual sites (for example, Willie Mazu). Anyway, this part of the country form a part of the Central American Caribbean Slope EBA and has its own special birds. We stayed at the former Bull Pension (now, Hospedaje La Amistad) and birded only the first part of the road, since the last part of the dike road has been used as a dumping site. Although the activity was low, it was constant, with common species showing up and even some surprises (for me). The first birds sighted were the Brown Jays, easily detected by their loud calls, followed by the huge Montezuma Oropendolas. Common birds were Passerini's, Golden-hooded and White-lined Tanagers, Band-backed Wren, Olive-backed Euphonia, Groove-billed and Greater Anis, Blue-headed and White-crowned Parrots and Pale-vented Pigeons. A little bird working the bushes along the road turned out to be a male Pacific Antwren, a long desired lifer for me! Not much later, a quick search to the sky produced a group of ten or more Gray-rumped Swifts, my second lifer of the day! They flew against the forested hill, allowing me prolonged views of the pale rump and throat. The second day we found almost the same species (except the antwren), plus a Laughing Falcon and a Green Ibis that flew directly to us! We were hurried to return over de Continental Divide in order to visit Las Lajas beach (Panama must be the only place where you plan a beach trip to the Pacific Ocean standing on the Caribbean coast). After all, two lifers is pretty good if you're not twitching.