Chiriqui Highlands clean-up!

The advantage of having a small birding community in Panama is that you know most of the avid birders of the country.  That is specially useful when you are doing a Big Year because you need to find local specialties with limited time (specially if you are doing a Big Year AND still have a regular job unrelated to birds or traveling).  After noticing that there was a big gap of Talamanca endemics in my Year List, I called a great friend of mine, Genover "Ito" Santamaria, and planned to spend half-day in his reign, looking for those specialties.  Ito is a nice guy and also a great birder, something you can experience by contacting him through Tamandua Nature & Photo Travel Panama.  Why you should?  Well, keep reading and you will see!

Talamanca endemic Ochraceous Pewee

As mentioned before, I only had half-day to find a list of targets, most of them endemics of the Talamanca mountain range shared by Costa Rica and western Panamá.  So I spend the night at the town of Guadalupe and went to bed after having a hot chocolate with marshmallows (specially good when the temperature outside is 12ºC).  Very early the next morning, Ito joined me with his modified 4WD truck (just after hearing my first target of the list, a Dusky Nightjar, above his house!).  Knowing the we were short of time, he planned to visit some key sites in a quick succession in order to maximize our chances.  The first stop was a road near the town of Las Nubes that crossed several habitats, including some nice patches of forests.  Quickly he started to point out some nice additions to my Year List.  Some forest border specialist, like Ochraceous Pewee and Black-capped Flycatcher were quickly noticed, while some skulkers took a little bit more of time (Buffy Tuftedcheek and Streak-breasted Treehunter).

Streak-breasted Treehunter (also a Talamanca endemic)

We crossed several mixed flocks with flycatchers, tanagers, chlorophonias and redstarts.  The activity was intense... actually, we noticed that it was very intense!  Soon, we realized that a bird we called earlier was vocalizing  and that probably all the clutter was due to its presence.  We started to search every tree, but following the hooting notes to its source was not easy.  However, experienced Ito knew exactly where to look and soon he found it!  A fierce-looking Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl in all its glory showed itself.  We got more-than-excellent views through the spotting scope... only my second sight ever and -by far- the best one!

Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl

Well, with most of my targets in the bag, we moved to another spot nearby where we got more birds, some of them also new year-birds.   Although some of them were not endemics, I was amazed to be able to include in my list some birds that I had not seen in many years in Panama.  Actually, two of them where species that I had seen only once before... in both cases (White-throated Flycatcher and Barred Becard), Ito was also involved in showing them to me for the first time.

White-throated Flycatcher

If you think this is a quick summary, well it is!  We moved from site to site very quickly, always looking for new birds.  We finally visited the last scheduled site, Volcan lakes.  It was almost noon, but the forest surrounding the lakes was alive with singing birds!  We were particularly lucky with flycatchers (with Slaty-capped Flycatcher and Eye-ringed Flatbill being new year-birds) and furnariids.  The mega skulker Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner allowed short -but nice- views... it was a Panama lifer, while both Chiriqui Foliage-Gleaner and Costa Rican Brushfinches offered an unforgettable show, posing for photos and I could even record audio.

Chiriqui Foliage-Gleaner

Costa Rican Brushfinch

What a memorable morning!  But it was time to say good-bye.  Curiously, the target that was still missing was also a widespread and common highland endemic: Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher.  We were not able to find it at its usual haunts in Guadalupe, but Ito gave me the directions to find it in my way back to David city.  Well, as you guess it, the bird was exactly where Ito told me!

The Long-tailed Flycatcher was my year-bird #700 for Panama!  At the same spot, I got more year-birds, including my life Townsend's Warbler!  So... YES!  It was an amazing quick-trip to the western highlands, full of endemics, specialties and new year-birds but more importantly, it was a birding trip with a good friend!

Quick trip to the highlands. Part II

After a relaxing day in the western highlands of Chiriqui province, I was about to start a new birding day very early in the morning.  I left my family in the hotel room and joined Ito Santamaría who is a knowledgeable local guide and friend of mine.  He kindly accepted to show me two long desired additions to my life list right in the town of Volcan.  For the first species, we drove a little further towards the outskirts of the town. He emphasized that we needed to be very early in the site to locate the bird while it was vocalizing.  The place was just by the road, bordering some lush gardens.  He recognized a weird call... after some moderate use of playback a little flycatcher flew towards us and started to respond with the same rattling call.

White-throated Flycatcher

I got some shots of the little, and rather drab, creature: a White-throated Flycatcher!  You may say why this bird is so special... look at it, a LBJ (little brown job) that looks identical to many other common flyactchers.  In fact, I have confused this species but for its call, which is quite distinctive for an Empidonax flycatcher.  Notice that this bird looks nothing like the illustrations of the field guides plates... it looks disturbingly similar to the Lesser Elaenia, that was pretty common in the area.  However, notice the smaller size and chunky shape, proportionally shorter tail, discrete eye ring and the obvious white throat (I think this bird was molting).

White-throated Flycatcher

Also, this bird behaved very different to the elaenias, actively feeding by making short flights and flutterings and returning to the same perch or close to it.  Ito thinks they breed near this site, but so far he still need to confirm this by finding an active nest of young birds (that look more like the illustrations in the plates, with warmer brown upperparts and ochraceous wing bars).  The White-throated Flycatcher is rare and localized in the western highlands of Panama.  Actually, it seems to be quite uncommon and localized along its wide range.  There were only two previous records in eBird for this species in Panama, so I was more than happy when Ito showed me this individual only 5 minutes after our arrival!  However, Ito had another surprise for me.  We drove less than 5 minutes to the center of the town, to a particular garden bordered with tall trees and a wet meadow (although tiny).  We waited and listen... nothing happened, but he was optimistic.  He played a tape once and listen again... suddenly, an elaborate call was heard in the distance... and we hurried to the source.

Melodious Blackbird

I know, I know... another drab bird!  This is a very special bird... a recent colonizer to this part of the country: a Melodious Blackbird.  Originally endemic to northern Central American, the impressive range extension is probably due to deforestation.  It was first reported in Costa Rica in the 80's, and the first confirmed report for Panama was in the western Caribbean slope almost exactly three years ago (report in Xenornis).  According to Ito, a small population established in the town of Volcan two years ago, at least... but it is very localized... actually found in only two sites.  WOW!  Two life birds in less than 20 minutes... wordless!  It was still very early, so we decided to go to the Volcan lakes; however, the activity around the access road and the nearby coffee farm prevented us for reaching the lakes.  The highlight was a cooperative Masked Yellowthroat.

Masked -Chiriqui- Yellowthroat

Now you are talking Jan (you may say)... this bird is an eye-popper.  The Masked Yellowthroat is a widespread species in South America, with a isolated population in this part of Panama and adjacent Costa Rica.  In fact, this form is known as the Chiriqui Yellowthroat, and sometimes is considered a valid species.  Compare the extension of black in the face of this male with that of other subspecies in South America.

Masked -Chiriqui- Yellowthroat

Certainly is more extensive.  There are some differences in songs and calls as well, and the idea of having an endemic yellowthroat is simply great, so I hope to call this bird Chiriqui Yellowthroat in the near future.  That was only my third sighting of this species in 19 years of birding the highlands... not bad at all.  In the way out, an obliging Olivaceous Piculet sang to call our attention.

Olivaceous Piculet 

A common species, and a nice one.  After it, we had breakfast... a well deserved one!  Two life birds the same day two times the same month (do you remember those rare swifts?).  Thanks Ito for showing me these special birds!

Birding the Volcan Lakes

After a successful day in the lush montane forest above Cerro Punta with my friend Ito Santamaría, he and his father accompanied me to lunch in the town.  It was around midday and, surprisingly, the day was clear and hot... like a summer day in the lowlands!  Only the abundant Tío Chicho (Rufous-collared Sparrow) was heard behind the restaurant windows.  Just the previous day (as well like the entire week), the highlands were being hit by a cold front and heavy rain!

After lunch we drove to the town of Volcan, in the slopes of the Baru volcano.  This potentially active volcano is the highest peak in Panama, and bears its own national park.  From a lookout close to our destination (the Volcan Lakes) you can recognize the ancient lava flow where the town is located.

Baru volcano and the town of Volcan

By the time we reached the Volcan Lakes, it was hot and quiet.  The birding was pretty slow... however, we found an interesting mixed flock with many of the most common inhabitants of these forests: Slaty Antwrens, Plain Antvireos, Silver-throated, Bay-headed and Golden-hooded Tanagers, Smoky-brown Woodpecker and a pair of Red-faced Spinetails.

However, the most conspicuous members of the flock were the warblers, with the migrants Black-and-white, Golden-winged, Blackburnian and Black-throated Green Warblers along with the residents Golden-crowned and Rufous-capped Warblers... also with the smart Slate-throated Whitestart.

The lake itself had less birds than in previous occasions, but we saw most of the usual species, including three Lesser Scaups.  We followed a road in the car, stopping after noticing some activity in the shrubs.  For the first time I experienced the phenomena of an antswarm in these foothills.  The ants swiftly covered the road... and behind them we saw a familiar ant-follower for me (in the lowlands): Gray-headed Tanagers (file photo).

Other birds were following the ants, like Rufous-capped Warbler, White-naped Brush-Finch and a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher.  It was a great day in the western highlands... and I'll look forward to come back!  

Post-carnival trip to the highlands. Part III

After an excellent birding in La Amistad International Park the previous day, for our last day in the Chiriqui highlands (western Panama's Pacific slope), we planned a visit to the Volcan Lakes (Lagunas de Volcan, as in the colorful sign) in the morning before engaging in the 7-hours-drive back to Panama City. These lakes are at 1200 meters above the sea level and are surrounded by a nice forest. The entrance road was alive with tons of birds, most of them Rufous-collared Sparrows and Mountain Elaenias, but also the very vocal Pale-breasted Spinetail (and my photo shows it exactly how you usually find it in the field), at least one Slaty Spinetail, and a nice male Masked (Chiriqui) Yellowthroat for just two seconds. At the forest surrounding the lakes, a huge mixed flock contained Wilson's, Blackburnian, Tenessee, Chestnut-sided, Black-throated Green, Rufous-capped and Golden-crowned Warblers plus two Slate-throated Whitestarts, which were not as photogenic as their relatives (the Collareds), always staying in the shade. Others species in the flock were Streak-headed Woodcreepers (a pair), Slaty Antwren, one Slaty-capped Flycatcher and a Plain Antvireo. However, this time the lakes were full of acquatic birds too.

As you can see in the pictures, we saw Northern Jacanas, hordes of American Coots, several Common (Moorhens) Gallinules and a group of very shy males and females Blue-winged Teals that dissappeared as soon as they detected our presence (I only managed very distant, poor photos for recording purposes only). Also in the lakes (but not in the photos) were several Purple Gallinules, a Great Blue Heron, Great Egrets, and both Least and Pied-billed Grebes. We recorded a good number of different species in just two hours. By the end, we stopped at a nearby coffee store where we enjoyed some hot beverages while admiring the magnificent view of the Baru volcano before heading home. This was an excellent swift trip to the highlands as always!

P.D.: just in case you are asking, it is in fact a House Wren using toilet paper as nesting material (at the coffee store).

Weekend at the highlands. Part II

Just a quick note about our second day at the Chiriqui highlands (western Panama). You can read my account about the previous day here. In advance, I'm sorry for the lack of photos... we were more interested in actually SEEING the birds because several were lifers for Gloriela and year-birds for me (including a loooooong-desired Panama´s life bird for me) and, again, the light was awful for photographing. The photos I got were not good enough (even for my standards!), but at least the birds are more or less recognizable. We left the car at the Volcan airstrip to walk the entrance road to the Volcan Lakes, a RAMSAR site well-known by birders. Few birds in that open area, but we saw (and heard) both Slaty and Pale-breasted Spinetails, lots of Tennessee Warblers and Rufous-collared Sparrows and even an impressive Lineated Woodpecker. The road was flooded in some parts, so I had to load Gloriela on my back several times because I was the only one wearing rubber boots (the things we do for the birds... but I did not worry at all because she is a light weight birder). At the forest surrounding the lakes, the activity was furious. A huge mixed flock, including residents and migrants, took the place. Just to list a few, we found a trio of Smoky-brown Woodpeckers, Blackburnian, Chestnut-sided, Tennessee, Golden-winged, Black-and-white, Wilson's, Three-striped, Rufous-capped and Golden-crowned Warblers, Philadelphia and Yellow-breasted Vireos, Cherrie's, Summer and Flame-colored Tanagers. The trail to the lakes was completely flooded, so we were unable to check it for ducks or coots (but we heard a pair of Gray-necked Wood-Rails very close to us). But the bird of the day was found in the way out. With a group of Slate-throated Whitestars and Red-faced Spinetails was a beautiful male Red-headed Barbet, my looong-desired Panama's life bird (after seeing it in Costa Rica, Peru and Colombia) and a spectacular lifer for Gloriela! Great way to call it a day at the highlands!

Back to the highlands

Yeap, we did it again this weekend, all the way directly to the western highlands in Chiriqui province. The area is so picturesque and has so many special (and near-endemic) birds that deserves many visits. We reached the Concepcion-Volcan road quite early, so we got an opportunity to birdwatch some areas on the way up, including the Macho de Monte river in Cuesta de Piedra. We found a nice assortment of tanagers (Blue-gray, Cherrie's, Silver-throated, Bay-headed and Golden-hooded) mixed with Thick-billed Euphonias and Variable Seedeater. A ruddy bird working on a mussy branch was a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner, our first (but not last) surprise for the site. An active Buff-rumped Warbler was inspecting the creek, while a sudden movement inside a bunch of dead leaves on a tree (yes, on a tree) resulted in a Riverside Wren, a lifer for me!!! It was more dark than I expected, but beautiful anyway. It stayed for five seconds, sang a little bit and then flew away to be seen nevermore, in spite of our efforts to relocate it. We kept going and by noon we were resting at our hotel room in Los Quetzales Lodge & Spa, in the lovely town of Guadalupe, beyond Cerro Punta. The lodge is surrounded in flowers, located close to a stream, and with hummingbird and fruit feeders in its grounds, so it is a very good place for birders despite is right in town. Before lunch I already had photographed some Flowerpiercers and hummingbirds chasing each other. Seeing an entrusted male Tennessee Warbler eating bananas in the tropics reminds me that all these birds belongs to the world, not to a single contry or a region. I wanted to visit the cabins, inside the La Amistad International Park, but Gloriela pointed out to me the cloudy slopes over the town, indicative of heavy rain in the area. During the lunch, we decided to visit the cabins next day and to pass by the Volcan lakes (Lagunas de Volcán) instead. Few minutes later, we were at the airstrip, walking the road to the lakes. Somehow, we forgot that in Panama usually rains during the evening, and this day was not the exception. A cool drizzle covered us, refreshing our spirits (we left the umbrellas in Panama city!) but chasing away the birds according to a local guide, Charlie, that was birding in the area. Anyway, we found a mixed flock with Silver-throated & Cherrie's Tanagers, Red-faced Spinetail, Mountain Elaenia, Slate-throated Whitestarts and a female American Redstart. We missed the Collared Trogon and Fiery-billed Aracaris watched by Charlie a couple of minutes before, but found four American Coots at the lakes. All wet, but happy, we enjoyed a chicken dinner in a restaurant at Volcan with live band... then, a well deserved dream in our hotel room preparing ourselves for the next day.