At the end of the road

Few months ago (yes... months!), I took advantage of some spare days and went to Darien province in eastern Panama in order to find a bird that has eluded me since I started birding more than 20 years ago.  You may expect that it is a rare and range-restricted species... and until some years ago, only reliable during the expeditions that ventured deep into the jungle of the Darien Gap.

Welcome to Yaviza. Km 12,580 final from Alaska

So I drove all the way to the town of Yaviza, where the Pan-American Highway abruptly ends... the only gap in more than 30,000 km of concrete and asphalt, and where the Darien Gap officially start!  My short stop there produced Bicolored Wren, a recent colonist to eastern Panama (and Central America), but not the target of my trip.  Some forest patches near town produced some eastern Panama specialties, like Black Oropendola, Black Antshrike and the cassini  ssp. of Chestnut-backed Antbird with its distinctive white spots on wings.

male Chestnut-backed Antbird, ssp cassini 

It was late, and I drove back to Metetí, where I spent the night.  The "appointment" with my target would be on the afternoon of the next day, so I planned to spent the next morning birding El Salto road, which requires an early start... as I did.  Early next day, I caught the dawn chorus in the famous road that ends in the mighty Chucunaque river.  El Salto road is a birding hotspot of the Darien lowlands.  Many Darien specialties and range-restricted species are easily seen there... but not the one I was looking for... but it was a nice spot to spent a couple of hours birding.  In quick succession I got some nice birds like Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Double-banded Graytail, Black-tailed Trogon, Choco Sirystes and many more.

El Salto road birding hotspot

Gray-cheeked Nunlet

Time flies when you are having fun, and soon it was time to return to Metetí in order to meet an old friend of mine.  After lunch, I joined  Nando Quiroz, who is an experienced birding guide, specialized in Darien birds.  He was in a private tour with a visiting birder who kindly agreed to accept my company for some hours... so I joined them and went across the Chucunaque river into the Embera-Wounaan region, into mature, old forest.  Before arriving to the local village, Nando stopped the car at the entrance of a narrow trail.  We walked a little bit and then he pointed us a huge Cuipo tree (Cavanillesia sp.)... it had a nest with an eagle on it... a Crested Eagle!

Crested Eagle

The Crested Eagle is a rare, huge raptor of the neotropics and not very often you have the opportunity to watch one on a nest.  It was not a lifer, but just the second time ever I had the chance to experience it!  In the short way out, back to the car, we crossed Red-throated Caracaras, Blue Cotingas, Golden-headed Manakins and a pair of Blue-and-yellow Macaws, detected by their raucous calls... they were lifers for me!  Once at the village, Nando suggested to take a little "panga" at the river to have a better field of view for my target.

That's Nando at back

We were looking for a bird that  inhabits forest edges and clearings... but in Panama it seems to specialize in river banks.  So there we were, aboard a wooden canoe in the middle to the river... Nando was whistling patiently.  Then, a response in the distance... something was answering to Nando's whistling.  After some tense minutes searching the surroundings, Nando pointed out a Cecropia tree.  A small, drab bird with long and pointed bill was flycatching and returning to the same perch... I shakily managed to take some photos.

Dusky-backed Jacamar

DUSKY-BACKED JACAMAR!!!  I know it is not fancy, nor colorful... but this is a quite special bird.  Restricted to a tiny area of eastern Panama and northwestern Colombia, this distinctive species required complete expeditions in the past.  Now, there are some accesible sites along the Chucunaque river that not even need a boat ride to reach!  Of course, you need an experienced guide to take you there... and Nando certainly is one of the best!  Thank you very much!

Flash trip to Darien National Park

The Darien National Park covers 579,000 ha of pristine primary forests and other habitats in extreme eastern Panama, and is home to some range-restricted endemics and near-endemic bird species.  In fact, around 40 species of birds are only readily found for Panama in this park... so you can imagine why I was trying to visit this park.  I have my own "Darien Gap" in my life list... and I wanted to fill it!

To be honest, this was not my first time in the park.  On two previous occasions (you can read about it here and here), I have accompanied the Panama Audubon Society in its annual fieldtrip to El Real, which includes a short visit to Pirre Station (also known as Rancho Frío).  This station is barely within the limits of the park, but surrounded by tall primary forest, making it a great place for birding.  Besides, the installations are comfortable and ideally located next to the Peresénico river.

But reaching it require a two hours walk through muddy trails and creeks from the nearest town, making a one-day visit not exactly a good idea for quality birding... although surely you'll find widespread species like the eastern form of Chestnut-backed Antbird cassini, with distinctive small white spots on wing coverts and females brightly colored below, as shown in the photo.

I  went to this station some days ago, taking advantage of my last days of vacations.  I spend only two half days in the station... my main objective were the highlands of the Pirre range (more about that in my next post), but that was enough to see great birds... and even a life bird for me.  The day of my arrival, my local guide pointed to me a HUGE cuipo tree next to the trail before entering the limits of the national park.  A quick search with my binoculars revealed a wide nest atop the tree... a Harpy Eagle nest!  After searching the surrounding, Isaac found a young Harpy close to the nest... what a great way to start my birding trip!  Not every day you see a Harpy Eagle!

We were not even 15 minutes from the station!  Once in the station, I only had time for dinner and take a shower... soon it got dark and the sounds of the night took over the place.  I heard both Crested and Spectacled Owls, and a Vermiculated Screech-Owl behind the station.  The next day I hiked to the highlands, leaving the station in the darkness of the dawn and returning at night; however, I still managed to photograph a Spectacled Owl in the darkness.

For the last day, Isaac took me to a spot 10 minutes away of the station, crossing the river.  It was a little bit dark, but we heard (and saw) both Streak-chested and Black-crowned Antpittas, Spotted and Chestnut-backed Antbirds and a Bright-rumped Attila.  We stopped next to a tall tree with a wide nest on it... another eagle nest!  This time, the tree was considerably smaller than the HUGE cuipo tree we saw two days before with the Harpy Eagle nest.  This nest was empty... Isaac began to whistle... I waited.  Suddenly, a ghostly shape flew under the canopy, perching in a nearby tree.  I was able to see clean white underwings... a young Crested Eagle!

I was able to see the field marks that separate this young bird of the very similar young Harpy we saw before: single-pointed crest, less massive bill and longer, less massive legs.  But the show was about to start... after a couple of minutes, an adult eagle arrived to the nest, and started to vocalize.

We spent more than 1 hour seeing both birds... but I needed to go.  Reluctantly, I left the eagles interacting between them... what a great life bird... and so close to the facilities!  Amazing.  I started and ended my flash trip to Darien National Park with two huge eagles, the largest eagles in Panama... but those were not my highlights of the trip (not kidding)... check my next post if you want to know!